Counter Surfing

Counter Surfing

By Benah Stiewing

Counter surfing is so much fun... for your dog! Dogs typically counter-surf for two simple reasons - it's interesting, which enriches their daily life, AND it often pays off with some high value rewards! However fun this behavior is for our dogs, it's typically not something we want them to practice in our homes. Not only is this hazardous for your food and other objects on your counter-tops, it can also be dangerous for your dog if they were to find & consume something unsafe. Below you will find enrichment, management, and training tips to prevent counter surfing and provide your dog with alternative behaviors that are safe and simple. 

Because dogs often choose counter-surfing as a fun activity when they are bored and don't have other, more positive outlets, we have to consider enrichment as a key part of our behavior modification plan for counter-surfing. When considering your dog's enrichment needs, you have to take into account your dog's age, breed, & preferred activity level. A dog with a high drive for hunting and working will be getting a lot of mental benefits from their counter-surfing routine, and we need to be ready to replace that with appropriate outlets instead!

Easy Enrichment Activities:

• Do training games or food puzzles for many of your dog's regular meals.

• Keep a freezer full of frozen Kongs & other stuffable toys for a regular mental exercise when your dog needs it!

• Teach your dog sniffing games on the ground, like find the treat or the toy.

• Add in some extra walks, runs, hikes, or other physical activities to your dog's weekly routine.

• Click here to view our recommended enrichment items & food puzzles!

Management is an essential piece of resolving counter-surfing behavior. If your dog is able to regularly practice getting up on the counters, and subsequently receives reinforcement (even in the form of a tiny little crumb of food), then they are likely going to continue to exhibit this very functional behavior. While we are working on replacing counter-surfing with better behaviors, we need to restrict our dogs' access to areas that have counters when we aren't around to supervise and redirect.

Even when we are around to supervise, sometimes our attention can be divided (i.e. cooking

dinner) and our counter-surfers can use that opportunity to sneak a tasty snack. Having a good management plan in place can help prevent that from happening! In practice, this could look like: 

• Use baby gates or exercise pens to keep your dog out of the kitchen when unsupervised.

• Keep food away in the pantry, cabinets, and/or refrigerator. 

• Avoid leaving food on the counter as much as possible. 

• When in the kitchen cooking, use tethering to keep your dog restricted to certain areas. 

• You can either tether your dog to your waist so you can supervise closely, or pick a nearby doorknob. 

The training game below is as simple as it sounds! We want to teach your dog that it’s more reinforcing to have all four feet on the floor. Through the enrichment and management techniques we discuss above, we’ve already made sure that your dog won’t ever be reinforcing for jumping on the counter. Now, we want them to learn what is reinforcing!

Four Paws on the Floor: 

• In your kitchen or other counter-surfing area, watch your dog and look for times when they have four paws on the floor. Mark and reward, then keep watching. Do they raise their nose up towards the counter surface, but keep their paws on the floor? Mark and reward! 

• If your dog struggles to even keep all four feet on the floor, you can ask your dog for a sit when they approach the counter. 

• Remember, we want to prevent the behavior, so ask them for a sit before they have begun to jump on the counter.

• You can add in mild distractions on the counter-top (think baby carrots or something else dog-safe) as your dog is ready!

Do you need extra support with your dog’s counter-surfing behavior? We’re here for you! If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person Group Classes and Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you work through your dog’s counter-surfing, it’s vital to remember that your dog is simply being a dog and working to access what is reinforcing - the more we can understand this and pay our dogs well for desired behavior, the better we may serve our dogs.

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Consent Petting

Consent Petting

By Benah Stiewing

There are few things better than cuddling up with your dog - simply petting a dog is scientifically proven to increase our oxytocin (a chemical that increases happiness) and decrease cortisol (a chemical that produces stress). However, it’s easy for us to forget that the fluffy, adorable dog in front of you also has needs and desires, and may prefer to be touched in certain ways at certain times, or not touched at all. Consent petting is the practice of reading your dog's body language to determine if, when, and how they want to receive physical affection. This practice is about promoting autonomy and choice in your dog, and can be extremely helpful for more shy or nervous dogs. When we give an animal the ability to choose something, rather than use force, we are showing the animal that we listen to them and will respect their needs.

As a general rule, if you touch your dog in a certain way and they move away from you, it’s safe to assume they didn’t want to be touched like that at that moment. However, just because your dog moves away once doesn’t mean they never want to be touched that way! You may love hugs from certain people at specific times, and other times want nothing of the sort. If your dog reliably moves away from you when you touch them in a certain way, you can assume that sort of touch is unwelcome, but if it only happens at certain times it’s possible they don’t like any touch under those circumstances. 

There are a few key forms of communication you can look for! These behaviors are often described as calming signals or cut-off signals, as they generally communicate a dog’s desire to pacify some form of perceived/felt stress or conflict. If you notice your dog practicing these behaviors during an interaction, consider pausing your action and giving your dog a moment to themself. These behaviors include:

• Lip licking: dog licks their lips or flick their tongue out from their mouth.

• Yawn: dog yawns, sometimes with their lips more curled back.

• Turning away: dog turns their head away from the person/dog that is making them nervous.

• Raised paw: dog slightly raises a front paw.

• Stiff body: dog’s muscles tense and movement slows.

• Tail raised: dog’s tail goes half-mast or slightly higher, maybe with a slow wag.

• Shake off: dog shakes off entire body.

Now that you’re familiar with some basic communication signals, it’s time to get started with consent petting! Obviously, your dog cannot say “Yes” or “No,” but they can use their proximity to a stimulus to let us know how they’re feeling. 

• When your dog places themself within an arm's distance from you, use your hand to scratch their neck, under their chin or behind their ears.

• It's always better to go under, than over! Reaching over your dog's head can be uncomfortable for them.

• Scratch them 2-3 times, and then stop and move your hand back onto your lap.

• If they stay where they are or move away from your hand, don't pet again.

• If they lean in, nudge you, or paw towards your hand, repeat the above steps for another few scratches.

• Repeat!

• As you get to know your new dog, you can learn if they like to be touched, how they like to be touched, and how they cmmunicate wanting or not wanting physical affection.

• In general, if a dog is moving away from you, that's a good indication to stop, and if a dog is moving towards you, that's a good indication to keep going.

Want to dive deeper into canine body language and communication? Consider watching our webinar, Learning Your Dog’s Body Language! This webinar provides a detailed, holistic approach to understanding your canine best friend.

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Inter-Household Conflict

Inter-Household Dog Conflict

By Benah Stiewing

Just like people, not all dogs get along! Some people are your best friends, other people are your acquaintances, and some people you just don’t like - and that’s okay! Unfortunately, we can’t always predict which dogs are going to get along great and which ones won’t. Whether you’re visiting friends or have recently added a new dog to your family, experiencing conflict between dogs within a household is challenging and often exhausting. Worrying about preventing or breaking up a fight can leave you tense and constantly on alert. In this post, we’re going to talk about handling inter-household dog conflict, but if you’d like to learn more about preventing inter-household conflict, check out this podcast episode from Pawsitively Dog-Powered! Please note: if there are dogs in your household regularly experiencing conflict that escalates into lunging, snapping, or biting, we strongly recommend seeking professional help from a certified trainer. 

In order to prevent conflict escalation, it’s important that you’re able to recognize the early warning signals your dog gives. These communication methods are called calming signals, or sometimes called cut-off signals because they embody the dog’s desire to de-escalate. The vast majority of dogs are not inherently aggressive and do not want to engage in violent behavior, so will do their best to diffuse a situation before it escalates. Below is a list of some common calming signs. When studying dog communication, it’s important to understand that just like us, dogs are nuanced and contextual. Your dog yawning doesn’t always mean they are stressed - they could also be tired! It’s important to look at the whole body and make an assessment of your dog’s emotional state based on the big picture. 

Calming Signs:

• Lip licking: dog licks their lips or flick their tongue out from their mouth.

• Yawn: dog yawns, sometimes with their lips more curled back.

• Turning away: dog turns their head away from the person/dog that is making them nervous.

• Raised paw: dog slightly raises a front paw.

• Stiff body: dog’s muscles tense and movement slows.

• Tail raised: dog’s tail goes half-mast or slightly higher, maybe with a slow wag.

• Shake off: dog shakes off entire body.

Pay attention to your dog’s body language over the next few days, and start to notice what calming signals they display. Once we understand how to read when our dog is becoming agitated, it’s easier to intervene earlier before behavior escalates. If you notice your dog yawning and lip licking when another dog comes close, ask your dog for a known behavior or say their name to help them create distance from the other dog. Reinforce your dog if they’re able to walk away and perform the behavior you asked for. We want your dog to know that they can create the distance they need to feel comfortable, and that we are their advocate and will help them create that distance when it’s needed. You want your dog to know that you hear, see, and will respond to their early warning signals that they’re feeling uncomfortable. If you’d like to learn more about calming signals, click here to watch a brief documentary from celebrated behaviorist, Turid Rugaas!

Management:

When handling inter-household dog conflict, we always want to focus on quality or quantity when it comes to time spent together. When you have multiple dogs, it’s quite normal for those dogs to spend 24/7 together. They eat together, exercise together, sleep together. Just like people, your dog is bound to get sick of spending that much time with someone! It’s critical that you create time and space for your dogs to do activities alone, like solo walks or solo cuddle time (if cuddling is something they enjoy). Have a dedicated activity that you all do together, like going for a walk with both dogs, or playing with toys out in the yard. When your dogs are spending time together, remember to look for signs of stress (as described above) and immediately end the experience if they start to arise. We want the stressed dog to know that those early warning signs will be noticed and responded to, so they don’t need to escalate to aggressive behavior to create the space they need. It’s critical that your dog trusts you to be their advocate, so they don’t have to.

We want to make sure your dogs always have the space to feel comfortable and secure, whether they’re with other dogs or alone. To ensure this, we want to bring in management! We can use objects like ex-pens, baby gates, crates, leashes, and muzzles to create a comfortable environment. We can use ex-pens, crates, and baby gates to provide separation and allow for each dog to have time apart. In the photos below, you’ll see one such separation! Cosmo is very selective when it comes to other dogs, so this was his set-up while visiting some friends who had dogs of their own. He has his crate, which is a safe and familiar space for him, surrounded by an ex-pen covered with a blanket. This way, Cosmo has three barriers of protection if he starts to feel unsafe - the blanket blocking his view, the ex-pen, and his crate. Keep in mind that this set-up is specific to Cosmo’s needs. For other dogs, we might have removed the chair and used a taller ex-pen.Your set-up is going to be specific to your dogs and what they need to feel comfortable. 

Training Support for Inter-Household Dog Conflict:

Supporting you and your dogs is our passion! We understand how challenging conflict in your home can be, and we are here to help. Private lessons are an excellent way to work on the relationship between your dogs, with an individualized training program created for you and your specific situation. Private training is available in-person in Fort Collins, CO, Hudson, NY, and everywhere virtually!  If private lessons aren’t an option for you on this set of behavior challenges, we highly recommend this online course by our colleague Katie at Wise Mind Canine, who specializes in multi-dog households!

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Resilience Rainbow Case Study - Osha

Resilience Rainbow Case Study - Osha

By Benah Stiewing

The Resilience Rainbow is a framework developed by Bobbie Bhambree and Dr. Kathy Murphy. Resilience is an animal’s ability to recover after experiencing a stressful event. Bhambree and Dr. Murphy created a system to build a dog’s overall resilience and increase their ability to reach their baseline. To learn more about the Resilience Rainbow, you can click here. In this piece, I am going to cover the application of this concept with one of my dogs, Osha the 2 year-old Border Collie.

Osha is a stable, friendly-neutral, and confident young dog. She was raised with careful attention to neutrality around other dogs because she lives with another Border Collie who is fearful of other dogs. In January 2023, Osha was attacked by another dog. I use the word “attacked” lightly, as there were no injuries and it was a friend’s dog who rushed Osha. We frequently go on group walks with friends and their dogs, and this was one such walk. A new friend was joining us that day, and her dog rushed Osha as soon as she noticed her. Osha started showing appeasement signals (ears back, low tucked tail wag, rolling over to expose her belly) which only escalated (growl deepened, flipped Osha onto her back, snarling with lips curled back into Osha’s neck) the other dog’s behavior. The entire interaction lasted about 8-10 seconds before they were separated. After they were separated, Osha was clearly extremely stressed. After that day, we went on a 2-week break from engaging with any other dogs as she recovered. During and after this initial decompression period, Osha did not show any signs of increased stress around other dogs. She did not develop any reactivity, and continued to practice lovely skills around unfamiliar dogs we encountered out in the world. 

However, I had a gut feeling that something was off about Osha. As the weeks and months passed, I could not put my finger on it. By April, I finally had a realization that Osha no longer engaged in play with other dogs. Before the event, she was a moderately playful dog and would engage her dog friends in appropriate play both inside and outside of the home. I began to realize that while she was still neutral and appropriate with other dogs, there seemed to be a lack of joy and excitement. These are anthropomorphizing words, but there is no better way to describe it. She simply didn’t enjoy her interactions with other dogs anymore. 

It’s important to state that this is not an odd or abnormal behavior for a mature Border Collie to develop. It’s very normal for a mature Border Collie to become less playful with other dogs, and interested in other activities. I wondered whether the event had simply coincided with a natural development, but I had this sneaking suspicion that it had not. I spoke to my friends who are also professional dog trainers and behavior consultants, and shared my thoughts. We discussed putting Osha on behavioral medication to explore whether the lack of play was natural or not. If a medication helped ease enough anxiety, would she engage in play again, or still be more interested in other pursuits? I ultimately did not use medication with Osha, simply because she started improving before it happened, but it’s definitely something I would have brought on board with the support of our veterinarian.

While I was considering these options, I started intentionally building Osha’s resilience. I had always been extremely particular about the dogs I allowed to interact with Osha, but I began being even more selective. I only had her around other completely neutral dogs who would not invite her to play or engage at all, beyond a friendly sniff. I didn’t want her to practice the behavior of turning down invitations to play, so I exclusively had her around dogs who wouldn’t ask. If another dog was present, my other Border Collie was always away in his crate or left at home. While he can safely co-exist around most dogs, it’s not something he enjoys and I didn’t want her to observe any stress around other dogs, even the most mild. While I make it a regular practice to play with my dogs everyday, I started incorporating new behaviors into our play routine together. Instead of mostly tugging, we would also play chase where Osha would run after me and catch me, and hide and seek where Osha would have to come find me. After our play sessions, we would lie on the ground together while I stroked her legs and feet, taking deep breaths. 

After just a few weeks of implementing these changes, Osha engaged a Rhodesian Ridgeback friend in play. It lasted only about 15 seconds, but it was the first time I’d seen her play with another dog in months. A week later, she engaged a Border Collie friend in play, and it lasted a few minutes this time. Within weeks, she was back to her normal self, playing and having a ball with her dog friends. I was thrilled to see her happy around other dogs again. I can’t say for sure what exactly caused this shift in Osha. Perhaps my attempts to increase her security and stability around other dogs helped her feel safe enough to invite play, or maybe this was a natural progression she would have made anyway. However, I do believe that my integration of the Resilience Rainbow framework helped restore Osha’s trust in me to be her advocate and protector, and feel relaxed enough to once again let loose around other dogs. 

I am thrilled that Osha has regained her confidence around other dogs, and is once again able to engage in play and enjoy social interactions. However, I am still extremely careful about her interactions with other dogs, and am cognisant that one brief moment of fear and/or conflict could really set her back. Just like human variances in resilience, some dogs can experience an event like the one described above and shake it off (literally and figuratively!), while dogs like Osha may be heavily impacted by a stressful event. Even though Osha’s symptoms of anxiety have shifted, I still take the same precautions to ensure she feels confident, secure, and relaxed around other dogs. I carefully select her canine friends, and structure the experiences to be what she needs to feel comfortable. Knowing that the steps I’ve taken to relieve Osha’s anxiety have been effective, I will continue to do them for the rest of Osha’s life so that - to the best of my ability - I can preserve her confidence and continue to build resiliency. 

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Adolescent & Teenager Dogs

Life With Your Teenager Dog

By Benah Stiewing

Just like in humans, canine adolescence can be a challenging time! Canine adolescence generally starts between 6 months and 12 months and ends between 18 and 24 months, but can fall outside of that period. During adolescence, a part of your dog’s brain called the hypothalamus begins to release a hormone called gonadotropin-releasing hormone (GnRH). Once GnRH is released in large enough quantities, it begins to stimulate the development of your dog’s reproductive organs, pumping out estrogen and testosterone. While critical to your dog’s healthy development, the sheer magnitude of these hormonal changes can cause some difficult behavioral shifts as well! Your dog’s change in behavior may shock or worry you, so it’s important to prepare ourselves and be ready to support our dog during this transition.

First, let’s discuss how we can manage our dog’s environment to help them feel comfortable and relaxed during their adolescence! It’s normal for your dog to have strong emotions about activities or actions that they previously may not have cared much about. For example, if you have family or friends that visit with their dogs, your adolescent may need more breaks and time away to decompress. Maybe your dog has had an excellent recall, even in high-distraction environments, but  now it’s less reliable. You and your dog can stay safe by keeping them on a harness and long-line. Baby gates, ex-pens, leashes, and your dog’s crate will really help you both through this developmental period.

Your dog may suddenly become more nervous around unfamiliar people and dogs. Never force an interaction if your dog is worried, this will only reinforce their anxiety. Instead, watch the unfamiliar people and dogs from a distance to  allow your teenager to collect information with a feeling of security. We do want to note that while behavior change is normal during this period, extreme behavior changes in your dog should be evaluated by a veterinarian and canine behaviorist. If your dog was solidly house-trained and then begins eliminating throughout your home, definitely have your dog evaluated by their veterinarian. If your dog went from sweet and friendly with strangers to suddenly biting your neighbor, seek professional support.

If you haven’t already, adolescence is the perfect time to start Look At That with your dog! Look At That, or LAT, is a pattern game developed by Leslie McDevitt from her Control Unleashed Program. LAT aims to neutralize the trigger (the thing that your dog has strong emotions about, like another dog or a scary thing) by reinforcing your dog for acknowledging the trigger. This exercise occurs in five steps, outlined below:

1. Your dog looks at the trigger.

2. While your dog is looking at the trigger, you say your marker word, such as “Yes!” or “Good!”

1. Your marker word is the sound you make (either verbally or with a clicker) when your dog is about to receive food. Because your dog experiences food as reinforcing, a behavior that is marked and rewarded will be repeated. You want to be consistent with your marker word because we want the word to have a strong positive association for your dog, or else they would have no reason to turn their attention back to you after looking at the trigger.

3. Hearing their marker word, your dog redirects their attention to you.

1. If your dog is unable to redirect their attention back to you, put food directly in front of their nose and try to guide their attention back to you. If you have to do this multiple times, you are too close to the trigger - create more distance and try again.

4. You reward your dog.

5. Repeat this sequence as many times as your dog will acknowledge the trigger, either by looking fully at it, or simply twitching an ear towards it.

Surviving your dog’s adolescence is all about meeting your dog where they are at. The rush of hormones they are experiencing can make them feel a little insecure and nervous, so the best we can do is recognize that and make life as simple and fulfilling for them as possible. Increase your time spent doing decompression activities together, like long, slow walks in nature where your dog is free to sniff and explore to their heart’s content. Instead of feeding meals in a bowl, switch to feeding in puzzle toys, like Kongs and Topls. Overall, we want your adolescent dog to practice relaxation over high-arousal activities, like fetch or going to the dog park. While these activities aren’t bad, we want to be careful to balance them out with decompressing activities where your dog is able to truly relax and you can take some deep breaths together. 

If you’re nervous about your puppy’s upcoming adolescence or currently in the throes of teenhood, we now offer Smells Like Teen Spirit! This is a 6-week virtual class that provides guidance, insight, and support for your dog to not just survive, but thrive during adolescence. The class is bursting with information, presented through recorded lectures, written instructions, and demonstration videos. 

If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you experience your dog’s adolescence, it’s critical to remember that your dog isn’t being bad, they are having a bad time. The more we can understand this and meet them where they’re at, the stronger your relationship will be. 

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Resource Guarding

Supporting Your Resource Guarding Dog

By Benah Stiewing

What is resource guarding? Resource guarding is a term that refers to behaviors a dog demonstrates in order to protect a resource from potential loss. The resource could be just about anything, including food, toys, bowls, water, their crate or bed, space in the house or yard, or you. Some dogs resource guard from people, some from other dogs, and some from both. The act of protecting what is one’s own is a very normal behavior for any animal to demonstrate, humans included! We erect fences, install cameras, and maybe even purchase a dog to protect what is ours, while dogs use different means. Resource guarding from your dog could look like growling, snarling, hard staring, hovering, or lunging when another person or dog comes too close to their perceived resource. Though resource guarding is a natural behavior, it can be dangerous for us and our dog to practice, so below you will find some helpful management strategies and training tips to set your dog up for success!

Once your dog begins demonstrating guarding behaviors around resources, it’s very easy for the practice to escalate. If your dog is enjoying a bone and they growl or snarl when you lean down to take the bone, and you understandably back away, the guarding behavior is reinforced. The guarding behavior has worked because the perceived threat moved away. We want to avoid this accidental reinforcement through management! Though resource guarding can be scary and emotional, we never want to punish our dog or take the item from them right there - all this does is reinforce that humans are scary and will take their things. We’d rather our dogs learn that resource guarding behaviors on the mild end of the spectrum are all that is necessary for them to maintain their resource - while we teach them through quality behavior modification principles how to feel better about giving up their resources! 

Management Strategies:

• When your dog is enjoying a resource they typically guard, like their food or a bone, put them in an enclosed space (like their crate) while they enjoy the item. When they are done with the items, release them from their crate and then put them in a different area while you remove the item. 

• If your dog isn’t crate-trained, follow the same protocol but use an ex-pen or baby gate to enclose your dog into one space. 

• If your dog guards toys, put toys away rather than leaving them out in the living room where a resource guarding event could occur. 

• If your dog guards spaces, like a certain room or bed, don’t allow them into that room or near that bed until you and your trainer have a solid training plan implemented. 

• If you absolutely need to get an item from your dog and don’t have them in an enclosed space, do not punish or yell at them to get the item. Instead, grab a handful of high-value cookies and scatter them a few feet away from your dog. When your dog starts eating the cookies, steadily continue dropping treats as you grab the item.

• Please Note: These are general management suggestions; depending on the severity of your dog’s behavior, and other factors (such as if there are children in the home), a more customized management plan developed in partnership with your trainer may be needed. 

Once you have a solid management strategy in place, it’s time to start training! Our first step is to start trading with your dog. Trading is all about switching the narrative! Instead of a human approaching representing a potential loss, we want a human approaching to represent something really good about to happen. 

• Give your dog something special but not special enough that they might guard it (like an empty food bowl).

• While your dog is investigating the item, simply take a few steps toward them and scatter a handful of treats on the ground right in front of their face. 

• If they begin eating the cookies, verbally praise and scatter a few more treats.

• Repeat this cycle multiple times, until every time you approach your dog looks at you expectantly for the handful of treats!

• Once your dog is excitedly anticipating treats when you approach, pick up the food bowl as you do your treat scatter. 

• If your dog continues eating, put the food bowl down and scatter another handful of treats. 

• Repeat!

If your dog has made it this far and is still excitedly anticipating treats when you approach, gradually start to raise the value of the item you are taking. First just add a handful of kibble, or even smother some treats on it so it smells good. Be extremely mindful of your dog’s body language as you escalate difficulty, and stop if you notice that your dog is hard staring, hovering over the item, or moving stiffly. Make sure to space out these sessions over days/weeks, so it’s a gradual learning process. 

Again, please note: if your dog has a history of strong resource guarding behavior (growling, snapping, biting) towards you, you will need to proceed through this carefully, slowly, and with detailed attention to your dog’s body language. We recommend consulting with a trainer before implementing if you are concerned for your safety. Do not give your dog something that they are likely to guard with the purpose of taking it away in the name of “training.” This is setting both you and your dog up for failure. 

In addition to the above protocol, a few times a day simply approach your dog, say “Drop it!” and scatter a handful of treats on the ground in front of their face. You can learn more about this training technique by watching this video by Chirag Patel! We want your approach towards them to equal good things, all the time. 

Rehabilitating and coping with a dog who resource guards is no easy task - it’s a complex behavior that requires a lot of effort to improve. If you’re struggling, consider our Resource Guarding Case Study Webinar! If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person support for Resource Guarding through Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you work through your dog’s resource guarding, it’s vital to remember that your dog is simply being an animal and desperately trying to protect and preserve what is theirs - the more we can understand this and meet them where they’re at, the stronger your relationship will be. 

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Loose Leash Walking

Loose Leash Walking

By Benah Stiewing

In order to train a pleasant, enjoyable loose leash walk for you and your dog, we must first recognize that walking in a straight line at a steady pace may seem simple to us, but to your dog it’s an incredibly unnatural behavior. Leashes prevent dogs from doing what is natural to them: roaming, sniffing, and generally exploring the world! Though our goal is to have our dogs walk at a steady pace near our side, understanding the difficulty of what we’re asking can help inform our training going forward. 

In order to train a leash walking behavior, first we need to identify our criteria. Do you want your dog at your side, in front, or behind? Do you want a leash to be loose with a J shape, or is it okay for it to be taut? Where are you going to be walking your dog - a rural road where you might only see a few people, or a busy city street where other people and dogs are a constant? The more consistent we can be with our expectations, the more clarity we can provide our dogs and set them up for success. 

Next, let’s consider your walking equipment! We prefer a front-clip harness, especially if you’re new to or struggling with your leash walking journey. View our Recommended Gear Page to check out all our favorite walking equipment! When you select your leash, refer back to your pre-selected criteria. If you want your dog walking at your side and you live in an urban environment, a shorter leash (5-6 feet) is going to make the most sense. If you want your dog in front of you and live in a more rural environment, a long-line (10-30 feet) will make more sense. 

Now we are ready to begin walking! The first concept we want to teach is giving in to leash pressure. Dogs pull because usually, it works! If they pull you towards that good sniff, they will generally be successful. If they don’t pull towards that sniff, they won’t get to enjoy the activity and the otherwise boring walk will continue. Loose leash walking is all about teaching your dog that it is more reinforcing to remain close to you, so we start by letting our dog know that when the leash tightens, this is a cue to give in to the pressure from the leash rather than pulling against it.

Teaching Give to Leash Pressure:

• Step 1: With your dog on a leash, make some space between you (see video linked below for

visual example!) and add a light amount of tension in the leash. This level of tension should

be about pinky-finger strength, so not very much at all! Watch your dog carefully, and pay

attention to that feeling of leash pressure as you stand stationary. As soon as your dog

moves to release the pressure in any way, even if that isn't looking back at you directly, mark

with your clicker or verbal marker and offer your reward close to your knee.

• Step 2: Repeat! Again, apply a slight amount of tension, stand still, and watch for your dog

to move in a way that releases that tension. As soon as they do, mark and offer your reward

from your hand placed at your knee so that your dog has to come back towards you all the

way to retrieve it.

• Step 3: Move around a bit, find different places to rehearse this skill! Remember, for this

stage of the exercise, your dog doesn't need to look back at you all the way. They just need

to give in to the leash pressure and work to release the tension on the leash rather than

adding to it. When you are seeing your dog quickly turn back to you when they feel leash

pressure, you can start adding in a few steps backwards before you reward so that they are

following and engaging with you for longer each time they check in.

Watch a video on how to give in to leash pressure:

Start practicing this game indoors, in a low-distraction environment! As your dog is successful, start to add in distractions (like your friend or partner doing jumping jacks). Eventually, take the game outside! Can your dog give in to leash pressure in the backyard, on your front porch, on the sidewalk in front of your house? On walks, start to generalize the behavior. When your dog pulls you towards a certain area, stop moving and wait for them to redirect their attention back to you. When they do, mark, and reward by allowing them to continue moving. On walks, we can use movement as reinforcement! It’s a lot more fun to walk than stand still and do nothing, so use that to your advantage. 

Teaching your dog to meet your expectations for loose leash walking is no easy task - it’s a complex behavior that requires consistency and effort. If you’re struggling, consider our Loose Leash Walking virtual course! This course, developed and taught by certified dog trainers, is a comprehensive dive into teaching your dog leash skills, and transitioning those skills into the world. Not ready to enroll? Check out our Loose Leash Walking Playlist on YouTube!

If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person Group Classes and Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you work through your dog’s leash walking, it’s vital to remember that your dog is simply being a dog and working to access what is reinforcing - the more we can understand this and pay our dogs well for desired behavior, the better we may serve our dogs.

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Reactivity on Walks

Supporting Your Leash-Reactive Dog

By Benah Stiewing

A dog who barks, lunges, and experiences elevated stress when another dog or person appears during a walk is a difficult habit for you and your dog to experience. The word “reactive” is a label we use to describe a certain set of behaviors that dogs exhibit

under specific conditions, such as exposure to a “trigger” like another dog or person. Since we all might have slightly different visions of what a “reactive” dog looks like, below are some of the behaviors that might put your dog into this category. Having a dog who displays any of the below behaviors is stressful at best and extremely emotionally draining at worst for both you and your dog. 

• Fixation on the trigger (orienting towards, unable to turn away)

• Pulling toward the trigger 

• Hard staring (no blinking, jaw stiff, often includes a freeze as well)

• Barking

• Lunging

• Snapping / Biting

Though your dog’s reactivity may be frustrating and invoke anger from you or folks on the receiving end of their reactive behavior, it’s important to understand that your dog is having a bad time, not being bad. All behavior is affected by what comes before it (antecedents) and what comes after it (consequences). Understanding this sequence can help us understand why your dog does what they do, and how we may successfully modify undesirable behavior, like leash reactivity.

• Antecedent: whatever happens BEFORE the behavior. (e.g. trigger entering the

  environment, a cue that you give, etc.)

• Behavior: whatever observable actions the dog takes following an antecedent (e.g.

  whine, bark, lunge, respond to your cue, etc.)

• Consequence: whatever happens AFTER the behavior. (e.g. the trigger leaving the

  environment, the trigger getting closer, the dog being pulled from the environment, you

  delivering a tasty treat, etc.)

• We can visualize the whole sequence like this: Antecedent → Behavior → Consequence

To understand how to modify behavior and change the reactivity we see in our dogs, it is helpful

to think about what consequence the dog might get out of the behavior they are currently

choosing. What function does the reactive behavior serve for the dog? If a dog’s behavior functions in a way where the consequence is advantageous to the dog (i.e. it is something the dog wants), the behavior is more likely to occur again in the future. For example, if your dog barks at another dog on a walk, and what your dog really wants is for that dog to go away, when the other dog walks away with its human, your dog will learn that the most effective way to achieve their goal is to bark at dogs that make them uncomfortable.

This is important to understand because a critical key to behavior modification is to prevent rehearsal of the undesirable behavior. The more the behavior is practiced (and reinforced), the stronger the behavior will become. To prevent undesirable behavior, we need to understand your dog’s threshold. Threshold is the term we use to describe the point at which a dog transitions from a comfortable state of mind to a more distressed mental state, in which we see outward behavioral symptoms of their discomfort (i.e. reactive behaviors). Before we are able to effectively modify a dog’s behavior, we need to recognize situations that cause them to become distressed and work to prevent them so we can keep our dogs comfortably just below that threshold level while we teach them new coping skills. 

Things that can bring a dog over threshold:

• A separate event that has caused the dog stress recently - i.e. a thunderstorm during the night before or a recent vet visit.

• A trigger becoming more intense and/or coming closer to you - i.e. dog walking towards

  you rather than away.

• The dog being tired / hungry / thirsty (like at the end of a walk)

• Encountering multiple triggers in a row / at the same time - this is called trigger stacking.

The goal threshold for training sessions with our reactive dogs fluctuates at the borderline between their comfort-zone (no reactions) & over-threshold (big reactions), and well within their comfort-zone. We want to give our dogs exposure that will help them learn, and then contrast that exposure with easy recoveries at a distance where they feel as comfortable (and non-reactive) as possible. Initial learning (such as foundation skills like focusing on you, responding to basic cues, etc.) is best done well below the comfort-zone threshold line. If you are trying to teach your dog new skills for the very first time at or above their level of comfort, this will be very difficult. Start by rehearsing good behaviors and skills in practice areas where your dog feels most comfortable, like your living room or your backyard.

Our goal through behavior modification is to create a different set of behavior patterns for our

reactive dogs that fit better into our human expectations of appropriate canine behavior. In order to help our dogs do this, we need to set them up for success with some environmental management. This means facilitating situations where our dogs can be successful and guiding them, through our training, to make better choices. Management comes into play to prevent our dogs from rehearsing the unwanted behaviors until the dog has a better behavior built up to replace the reactive behavior. Pushing your dog into uncomfortable situations just because they haven't reacted yet is not necessarily setting them up for success. They don’t need to cross their threshold to learn!

Management ideas:

• Cross the street or duck behind a car if a dog is approaching and you won’t have the space you need for your dog to be successful.

• Install visual barriers on your windows and play white noise so your dog can’t practice their reactivity in the home.

Behavior modification is the process by which we teach our reactive dogs a different set of

feelings and, most importantly, behaviors about situations they would typically default to reactive

behaviors. To help change your dog’s current association to the sight of other dogs, we provide VERY HIGH VALUE treats (think diced chicken, liverwurst, and hotdogs) when your dog is in the

presence of other dogs (or other triggers). Over time, and with proper desensitization, your dog will learn to associate the presence of other dogs with yummy things. Your mantra should be “good things happen for my dog when other dogs are around!” We would prefer if the presence of another dog was a happy, exciting event for your dog. Our goal is for your dog to see another dog and immediately look to you as if to say, “Yipee! I see another dog! That means I get chicken, right?!” No barking or lunging, just an excited, expectant look on your dog’s face.

Behavior modification is a complex task, and if you are struggling with leash reactivity we  recommend seeking the support of a certified trainer. This post barely skims the surface of all the components that could be part of a leash reactivity training plan! Consider starting with our Reactivity in Dogs Webinar that dives deeper into the complexities of this behavior, and how we may support our dogs in developing different behaviors around their triggers.

If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person Group Classes and Private Lessons for reactive dogs  in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you work through your dog’s leash reactivity, it’s vital to remember that your dog isn’t giving you a hard time, they are having a hard time - the more we can understand this, the better we may serve our dogs.

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Reactivity at the Fence

How to Get Your Dog to Stop Barking At The Fence (or Windows & Doors!)

by Benah Stiewing

Excessive barking in the home is not a pleasant behavior for us as humans to experience! It’s easy for us to become agitated, frustrated, or upset, which in turn can actually make the behavior stronger because the dog’s stress level may increase as ours does!. First, it’s important to understand that barking at the fence, window, or door is a very normal behavior, and it can be extremely reinforcing to the dog. If a jogger runs past the fence and your dog barks, the jogger will leave. As humans, we know the jogger left because they continued with their run, not because of the barking. But to your dog, they effectively protected their home from the potentially dangerous jogger - barking works! Whether your dog barks at the fence, window, or door, it’s very easy for this behavior to become quite strong because the trigger that causes the barking is generally going to continue on their walk, mail route, or run, and your dog has accomplished the task of getting the scary thing to go away. 

The trigger outside of the home is a cue for your dog to react with vocalization. We want to shift that trigger into a cue to check-in with you! To do this, we are going to utilize the Thank You Protocol. To start this protocol, our first step is management. We want to eliminate rehearsal of the behavior when we are not present to actively train it. 

• For dogs who are stimulated by the sight of a passerby, add window screens to block the visual (for windows/door barking) or keep the dog indoors (for fence barking). 

• If your dog is stimulated by the sound, play white noise.

• Try to use x-pens or baby gates to block access to any doors or windows where your dog usually goes to bark.

• Check out our favorite safety and management tools here! 

For the Thank You Protocol to be successful, we need to reframe our own narrative around barking. Even though we may feel that barking is  a bad behavior that needs to be corrected right away, to the dog the barking is very functional for communicating their needs and feelings in that moment.  . If we react with stress and intensity, we are essentially  affirming the underlying feeling of concern that prompted the bark. Instead, we want to tell our dogs “Thank you for letting me know, I’ve got this from here.” To do this, we teach the dog to come find us and receive reinforcement when we give a verbal cue that signals they can stop barking, we have heard them and will take care of whatever may be present. 

Next, we want to begin loading the cue we will say to our dog to interrupt the reactivity. Select a word that doesn’t have a strong history of not working, so their name or “come” may not be effective. Pick a novel word that your dog doesn’t have any feelings about. (If your dog’s name cue is usually an effective way to get their attention, you can use it here - but if your dog has a long history of ignoring this cue when they are barking, choose a different word to start with.)

• Once you’ve selected a word, say the word to your dog while you have their attention and then immediately deliver 10-15 treats directly to them, regardless of what behavior they offer. Practice this a few times a day in the location at which they generally bark. 

• We want to pay really well for this behavior, so use food that your dog is going to really care about, like boiled chicken or freeze-dried raw. Rotate between different high-value foods so your dog doesn’t get bored of the same thing.

• Once your dog starts to get excited when you say this word, begin saying the word at random moments when your dog isn’t already paying attention to you. 

• It’s critical that you deliver the treats to your dog whether they have looked at you or not. 

• Practice at different times of day, wearing different clothes, and at different prime barking locations. 

Once your dog has a solid response to your verbal cue, we want to start using that cue when your dog begins barking. 

• Say your cue right when your dog begins barking, or right before. 

• If your dog doesn’t look at you when you give them the cue, get closer to your dog before giving the cue again. 

• If your dog even gives you a shred of a glance, start rewarding.

• If your dog still doesn’t look at you with decreased distance, end the training session and try again next with higher-value food.

• The goal at this stage is for your dog to look at you for food after a few barks at the fence/door/window, so if they are unable to do that then we need to increase the value of our reinforcement and/or decrease the difficulty of the trigger. 

Watch the helpful video below of Liz Burke demonstrating this technique! 

Eventually, as you practice this skill with your dog, we want them to turn to you or come find you when they see a trigger that they previously would have reacted towards. When successful, we have turned the trigger into a cue to come to you for reinforcement. This is a complex behavior that takes time and devotion to solve, so take it slow and remember that management is key to success. If you need help with solving your dog’s reactivity, consider our Reactivity in Dogs Mini Course! Don’t hesitate to reach out  - we are available for private in-person and online training to support you and your dog. 

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.

Everything You Need to Know about Adventure Camp

By Meredith Decker

Summit Adventure Camp is a day training program specifically designed for puppies between the ages 9 weeks and 16 weeks. We curate our curriculum around foundational skills that will follow your puppy through their life and take advantage of the critical socialization period that they are in during their Camp experience. Camp is a great place to begin your puppy’s training and for you to get a break from the hard job that is puppy raising. 

Primary Goals

Socialization

Socializing your pup is all about exposing them to new situations or environments and creating positive associations in these interactions. The key to socialization is helping your puppy feel comfortable and offering support when they need it. There are lots of things in our human world that might be scary to your puppy and we want them to feel safe enough to confidently say  “yes, I’d love to check that out!” or calmly say “no thank you, I’m not feeling up for it today”. At Adventure Camp, we make sure that the new things we expose the puppies to are age appropriate and that if the puppies feel unsure we can support them to learning that new things are normal and usually fun. Your puppy gets an outdoor adventure (weather permitting) and we like to take this opportunity to help them become comfortable with new noises or smells. If the puppy wants to move closer to a stimulus, we will join them, but if they decide that the new thing is too scary, we help them work through those feelings and show them that it’s okay to move away from things as well.

One of the biggest pieces of socialization is to have your puppy meet new dogs. At Adventure Camp, your puppy gets ample opportunity to interact with the other puppies in a way that is safe for everyone and also helps teach them polite social skills. Puppies need help learning how to politely greet other dogs and regulate their play. If puppies had their choice, many of them  would never stop playing. However, taking breaks from play is imperative to your puppy learning how to play appropriately. We want them to learn how to listen to their bodies when they feel done playing and how to respond appropriately. It’s also incredibly important that they learn to respect when another dog tells them that they are done playing.

Foundation Behaviors

In Adventure Camp, we focus on establishing foundations with your puppy from which you can build many different behaviors. All training sessions follow a curriculum that clients will have access to as their puppy progresses through Camp. 

The first thing we want to do is establish a form of communication and teach the puppy the sound of a clicker or verbal marker (“yes or “good”). Marker Conditioning is the basis for positive reinforcement training. We familiarize the puppy with the sound of the marker so they learn that the sound of the mark means that they’ve just done something correct. It is our main form of communication with puppies when we are teaching them a new skill.

We also like to take time to help your puppy become comfortable with any kind of gear that they will wear regularly. We need leashes, collars and harnesses, so we help teach puppies how to be comfortable with the gear itself and the physical handling that will go into putting their gear on.

Potty training is probably the first skill you ever begin working on with your puppy. We continue all of that hard work at Camp with frequent potty breaks and plenty of management to make sure we minimize accidents.

The training work that we begin at Camp isn’t all active. One of the most important skills we work on is helping your puppy learn how to rest while other things may be happening around them. Each puppy has a pen with activities like puzzle toys, frozen kongs, or chews that they can occupy themselves with. It’s important that puppies learn how to appropriately entertain themselves rather than always looking to humans for entertainment.

Once we’ve established all of these behaviors, we move into building skills like coming when called or loose leash walking. We are also always happy to discuss with you any other skills that you may need help with and want to work on while your puppy is at Camp.

Adventure Camp Details

Adventure Camp is run on Wednesday and Friday mornings throughout the year. Drop off begins at 7:30 am and you can pick up between 11:30-12:00. We host a total of 4 puppies at a time so that each puppy gets individualized attention from our two Camp instructors and plenty of opportunities to work on their skills. 

Adventure Camp is a package service, so when you sign up for camp, not only are you enrolled in 4 weeks of camp, you also get two 45 minute private sessions with the lead Camp instructor. In these sessions you learn how to apply the skills that your puppy is learning and you can ask any questions about puppy raising. You also get a treat pouch and a lifetime enrollment into our online Puppy Basics course. The Adventure Camp curriculum is based on this course so you can reference it throughout your puppy’s time at Camp. This is an excellent resource which we frequently reference in our daily report cards. 

Because Adventure Camp is a day training program while you are not directly with your puppy, we offer plenty of opportunities for you to receive support while you work on transferring these skills to your home. In addition to the private sessions, we offer opportunities to connect with our trainers at our Parent-Trainer Conferences for 30 minutes every other Friday following Camp pick up. We also write up daily report cards which summarize what your puppy worked on each day at Camp and make sure to take at least one video every day of your puppy working on skills.

Daily Schedule

When your puppy arrives at Camp, we like to give them a few minutes to settle into the space by bringing them into their pen as each puppy enters the room. Once all of the puppies have arrived, we start the day with a little bit of play so they can get their wiggles out. Following the play session, each puppy will get their first individual training session. This is one opportunity that we take for the other three puppies to learn how to rest or occupy themselves while the fourth puppy is training. Each puppy also gets one outdoor walking adventure to help them grow in their confidence and begin working on loose leash walking.

Well-rested puppies make for the best learners, so once each puppy has gotten their first training session and walk we put them down for a nap. After nap time, the puppies will get their second training session and some more play time.

At the end of the day, you will be taking home a happy and tired puppy who has learned lots and is ready for a nice afternoon nap!.

Preparing for Puppy’s First Day of Camp

Once you have signed up for Adventure Camp, you will receive an email which has a link to some forms that you will need to fill out before your puppy’s first day and a place to submit your puppy’s most most recent vaccine records. 

On your puppy’s first day of Camp, we offer you the opportunity to come into the training room to meet our Camp trainers and see the space where your puppy will be spending time. If you are interested in this opportunity, we suggest you arrive right at 7:30 to make sure we can get you in before all of the Camp puppy crew arrive.

Frequently Asked Questions

How is this different from Dog Day Care?

Adventure Camp is specifically designed with young puppies in mind. At their current age, puppies are always learning, so we want to take advantage of their sponge-like brains and create habits and skills that are helpful to you and to them. Our Adventure Camp is set up so that your pup will be coming home mentally & physically tired rather than feeling over-taxed from being in a consistent state of high-arousal often associated with play-all-day day care settings. 

What about my puppy’s vaccinations?

We use the Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's Statement on Socialization as a guideline for our early socialization classes. We take special care to keep our training facilities clean and safe for your puppy as they continue to get their vaccines. We make sure that everything your puppy will interact with is cleaned before and after camp. This includes our floors, any toys your puppy will play with and platforms they might climb on. If you are interested in learning more about our full cleaning routine, we have a blog post dedicated to our facility cleaning routine.

How do I sign up?

There are a couple of ways that you can sign up for Camp! If you are ready to get your puppy enrolled, you can schedule a phone consultation where we can learn more about you and your puppy. We can sign you up for Adventure Camp during the phone call. If you would like to schedule your Discovery Call you can do so here.

You can also join us at a Puppy Playschool drop-in class. This is a great way for you to meet the trainers in person and see our facilities. We would love to chat with you and provide additional information about Adventure Camp and help you sign up. If you would like to sign up for Puppy Playschool, you can do so here.

What are the next steps after Adventure Camp?

Your puppy’s training has only just begun. Once your puppy finishes camp, they will be old enough to join our Puppy Basics class! This is the perfect opportunity for you to practice all of the skills your puppy has learned and continue to build on them further.

If there is a specific skill that you would like to continue to work on, we also offer additional private lessons for our camp clients at a discounted rate. The structure is similar to the 45 minute transfer sessions that you would have during camp.

Our goal at Adventure Camp is to provide support. Raising a puppy is a wonderful experience but it can easily be overwhelming. We want to help you create foundations that you can build from throughout your puppy’s life. 

You can find all of the information discussed in this post and testimonials from former clients here. If you have any questions, you can also contact us today!

Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog!  If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.